Well-Made Essentials » Heavy flannel shirts
For more custom flannel shirtsinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
Flannels are the quintessential outdoorsman piece. Especially in places where the men and the bears head for their caves when the evenings get long and dark, warmth-giving flannels are something of a uniform. Wherever the fog rolls and the winds blow, the heavy fabric and the checks are as essential as hot drinks and dry kindling.
As much as any other button-up shirt, the well-made flannel is a linchpin of workwear looks. Even in its red and black buffalo check incarnation, it’s never tired or cliche.
Since mass-market and fast-fashion brands have all jumped on the flannel train, you can find a ton of corner-cut flannels. But none of these hold a candle to the genuine well-made article. The colourways, the construction, the feel of the flannel itself—nothing compares to a heavy, built-to-last flannel. And nothing pairs better with a heavy pair of selvedge.
If you want to wear denim seriously (and who doesn’t?), you need a well-made flannel.
Denimhunters is reader-supported. We might earn a small commission when you make a purchase after clicking a link on our site. But don’t worry, it won’t cost you anything. When we show a price, it’s including local VAT, and it’s subject to change.
The market is positively bursting with flannel options. Surprisingly, though, there are not very many makers who really push themselves to the fore in the well-made flannel space.
To find a well-made flannel worthy of the name, you have to look high and low. That’s exactly what we’ve done. Here are the best eight heavy flannels we’ve found.
The undisputed king of the category, the Iron Heart Ultra Heavy Flannel continues to lead the way in terms of build quality and wearability. Woven with aspero cotton from the foothills of the Andes, and double brushed on the inside for added comfort, sliding one of these over your shoulders feels like slipping into a warm bath on a cool evening.
The classic red/black and blue/black colourways are dependably stocked, but their crazy check patterns are another matter. Popular sizes will sell out in a matter of hours, so, if you want a truly stand-out piece from the Pride of Japan, it’s wise to keep your ear to the ground and be ready to leap when the leaves start to turn.
Other cool-weather Iron Heart shirts to consider: IHSH-251 (9 oz. selvedge flannel), IHSH-235-BLK (13 oz. serge)
Iron Heart ship from the UK and the US. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Iron Heart, check out: Franklin & Poe (US), Corlection (AUS), Self Edge (US), Brund (Denmark), Statement (Germany)
If anybody has got Iron Heart’s Haraki-San looking over his shoulder, it’s the good people at UES. They’ve turned more than a few heads with their crazy heavy flannel offerings in the past few years, and they’re gathering steam with each passing fall.
Their flannels tip the scales at a whopping 14.5 oz., and they’re woven on vintage shuttle looms and rope dyed for that ultra-authentic story that can be read in every piece. They’re made by passionate denim artisans who have built their brand around a noble idea: each UES piece is designed to be “worn well” and worn until every ounce of pleasure has been wrung out of it.
Other cool-weather UES shirts to consider: UES has an impressive Range of Flannels that gets updated each year. Most flannel lovers have at least one of them.
Redcast Heritage ship from Spain. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy UES, try: Rivet & Hide (UK), DC4 (Germany), UES Official (Japan)
California-based Freenote Cloth have built a reputation as one of the strongest made-in-America denim brands out there. As good as their jeans are, it’s what they’re doing above the belt that has made their name ring out in the workwear scene. They’ve got a shirtiers eyes for fit and detail, and they sign each piece with a flourish. Once you learn to spot this signature, you can spot a Freenote piece from across the room.
If your closet isn’t already bursting with Freenote shirts, this heavy beauty will be a warm introduction to the brand. The 11 oz. brushed cotton was milled in Japan especially for the brand. Skilled artisans constructed the shirts in the United States, topping each piece off with custom horn buttons. It’s a campfire classic in the making.
If this colour doesn’t catch your eye, Freenote has a small Range of Flannels that they update regularly.
Franklin & Poe ship from the US. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Freenote, try: American Classics London (UK), Stuff (Germany), Populess (Canada), and Freenote Cloth (US).
Swedish brand Indigofera, like Freenote, has established itself as one of the best shirt makers in the game. They produce some of the best wool blankets anywhere, so they know a thing or two about keeping their customers warm when the temperature drops.
Woven on shuttle looms in Japan, Indigofera’s Bryson flannels bring together old and new like nobody’s business. The vintage-infused check sits atop a tailored fit and a long fit (quite a bit longer than Japanese flannels). A perfect fit for the modern gentleman with vintage sensibilities.
If yellow isn’t your favourite colour, Indigofera has a small Range of Flannels to look at. Though the range is small, they somehow manage to have one to suit every style.
Franklin & Poe ship from the USA. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Indigofera, try: Pancho & Lefty (Sweden), Denim Heads (Czech Republic), Burg and Schild (Germany), Brund (Denmark), Rivet and Hide (UK), Standard and Strange (USA)
Hitting the classic black and red flannel right in the sweet spot, The Flat Head is a strong contender for best in show. The brand is best known for their jaw-dropping leather goods and their jeans, which have long been a favourite among fade enthusiasts. They know a thing or two about well-made menswear, and it shows with this shirt.
The biggest draw card here is the pattern. The Rob Roy MacGregor tartan has been interpreted a million times, but never quite as well as this. Everything from the cat’s eye buttons to the tilt of the bias-cut pockets harmonies perfectly.
Before leaping into one of these, check the measurements carefully. Designed for Asian bodies, they aren’t a perfect fit on all frames.
The Flat Head also have flannels in Ivory/Navy and woodsy Blue/Green colourways, and they make a stunning Western Version of the Ombre.
Redcast Heritage ship from Spain. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Pherrow’s, you can find Flat Head at Franklin & Poe (US) and Corlection (AU).
If that boxier vintage cut is your bag (it’s not really ours, but who are we to judge), the Real McCoy’s impeccably assembled Napped Flannel shirt has probably got your number. One of Japan’s premier vintage reproduction specialists, Real McCoy’s takes pains to make sure that everything stamped with their label is equal parts well-made and 100% authentic.
The flannel itself has loft and heft (probably well into double-digit territory). Heavy-duty urea buttons complete the vintage look, and you can be sure that every stitch will be a work of art. Equally at home in the woods and the coffee shop.
Other cool-weather Real McCoy’s shirts to consider: 8HU Buffalo Check Flannel (the classic red/black), 8HU Horse Blanket Flannel (dusty and washed out)
Lost & Found ship from Canada. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Real McCoy’s, try: Clutch Café (UK), The Real McCoy’s international (UK), directly from the Real McCoy’s (Japan), and Standard & Strange (US).
We’re closing out with what perplexingly remains as one of the best-kept secrets in the world of well-made goods. Warehouse might be a name familiar to most, but it’s a brand that far too many of us experience late in our denim journey (I’ve been just as guilty of this as the next guy).
Create a panel comprised of the foremost vintage denim experts and ask them to name their favourite contemporary denim brands. There’ll probably be a good variety of names mentioned, but dollars to donuts it’ll be Warehouse that gets the most nods.
Their jeans, tees, and sweatshirts approach perfection, and their flannels show all the same hallmarks of meticulous construction and careful fabric sourcing. This 11 oz. green number with a brushed interior will rocket to the top of your rotation and, soon enough, you’ll join us in singing the brand’s praises.
Warehouse have a beautiful range of colourways in their 3104 Flannels, each of them a winner in its own right.
Corlection ship from Australia. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Kato, try Blue in Green (US) and Clutch Café (UK).
Seattle-based Filson has leaned hard into the rugged outdoorsman and workwear categories since the end of the nineteenth century. Originally, they focused on outfitting Klondike-bound prospectors. Their focus was on rugged garments, blankets, sleeping bags, and boots that would stand up against the elements and against anything the miners could throw at them.
Things, as they say, panned out for the brand. When the gold rush dried up, Filson turned to outfitting fishermen, hunters, and loggers—really, just about anybody who needed warm and durable gear and clothing, and they flourished in the space.
Filson manufactures much of their clothing in Asia now, so they don’t have the same bona fides they once did, but this is one of the pieces they refuse to offshore. Made entirely in Washington State, it is a true testament to the brand’s heritage. The only non-cotton piece on this list, this heavy wool shirt is as warm as they come.
Other cool-weather Filson shirts to consider: Northwest Wool Shirt (11 oz. wool/nylon blend), Field Flannel Shirt (7 oz. cotton flannel), Moleskin Seattle Shirt (7 oz. cotton sueded Moleskin)
Filson ship from the USA. If they are sold out, or if you are looking for other places to buy Filson, try: Brund (Denmark), Cultizm (Germany), Mr Porter (global), Nordstrom (USA), HepCat Store (Sweden)
Well-made flannels are essential because they’re both timeless and adaptable. They are built to last, they’ll never go out of style, and they can be worn with just about anything. Let’s take a closer look at each of these important points.
The first people to wear flannels were 17th-century Welsh farmers, who wore heavy overshirts of carded wool or worsted yarn. The fabric crossed the Atlantic with early American settlers, and it became a northern staple in places where, year round, the mornings are chilly and damp.
As the lumberjacks cleared the eastern forests of its most valuable timber, they moved west, bringing the flannel with them until they reached the Pacific. They brought their legends with them. Brawny Bunyan and his trademark red and black flannel both put down thick roots in Washington State’s and British Columbia’s cedar and redwood forests, where the flannel is still immensely popular.
Flannels have proved such a lasting fashion staple thanks to their ability to fuse practicality with rugged good looks. Take your average urban coffee-shop hipster, hide his razor for a week or two, and set him loose in the forest in denim and flannel and he’ll look the part. After a few hours in the thicket, he might even feel the part.
There’s a catch, though. Flannel has become something of a catch-all term for plaid shirts of any thickness or quality. If you want to really lean into that timeless urban woodsman look, the best way to do this is with a built-to-last flannel that marries softness and ruggedness. Mass-market and fast-fashion flannels just can’t stack the flapjacks like a well-made flannel can.
A rough and rugged flannel (almost always worn untucked) pairs effortlessly with raw denim. Whether you’re one or five hundred wears deep, a well-made flannel will be your perfect companion on your raw denim journey.
There’s no fussing about with flannels. They’re designed to just be thrown on whenever that extra layer is called for. Some of the flannels below have a brushed interior that calls out to be worn against the skin, but they’re also great layering pieces.
If you’re pairing denim jackets and jeans, a flannel can help break up the sea of blue. As a general rule, two pieces of denim at a time is enough. Plaid flannels with red, brown, or orange foundations can really pull a denim-based kit together.
This is why the flannel is such an essential part of the denimhead’s wardrobe. It shines in its own right without dimming the light of our other carefully selected denim pieces. If we want this effect, a flimsy flannel should be the furthest thing from our mind.
Back to guide overview
Fashion labels have long tried to capitalise on the popularity of plaids and flannels (not the same thing). Luxurious plaid pieces might have a hefty price tag, but they are a far cry from the kind of rugged pieces we’ll be highlighting below.
Yes, the flannel shirts we’ll be looking at are expensive (though often not as expensive as their luxury label counterparts), but we’re paying for something that will be a cornerstone piece in our wardrobe.
Here’s how to make sure you get your money’s worth.
The flannels we cover below are all 100% cotton. Synthetic fabrics don’t break the rules of flannel (the definition leaves a lot of wiggle room), and some quality makers might introduce polyester or wool into the mix, but our favourites stick to cotton, and we’re suggesting you do the same.
As with most workwear pieces, weight is a good guide. A good flannel won’t be as heavy as a jacket or a wool sweater, but it should be inching towards that outershirt territory. It should have some heft when you take it off the hanger.
Premium flannels should also have some loft (thickness that is the result of brushing either one side of both sides of the garment). It should feel both soft and durable. It shouldn’t be too soft, though. If you see ‘fleece’ (made from recycled plastic) anywhere on the label, put it back on the shelf and wash your hands.
No matter how classic the pattern, there should be a clear attempt on the part of the maker to re-interpret the plaid and put their own spin on it. This might mean a subtle variation in the classic colours, or a weave that reveals its complexity when examined closely.
You can feel the difference (especially when you put the shirt on), and you can see it. The quality is woven into the shirt.
What to look for in well-made flannel:
Once you’ve assessed the fabric, the first place you should look is the hardware. If the shirt is fastened with plastic buttons or (gasp) a zipper, there’s no point in examining the piece any further. Ideally, you should be looking at heavy-duty snaps, not only down the front of the shirt but also on the pockets and the cuffs.
The collar and cuffs should be firm and hefty, with sturdy and carefully colour-matched stitching. On the inside of the shirt, you should also see some of the hallmarks of careful tailoring.
Look for flat-felled seams with the edges of the fabric rolled over rather than loose), and single needle stitching (one row of stitching on the outside of the garment, but on the inside two rows so close as to almost overlap). These are labour-intensive practices, but they produce cleaner, tighter seams that will stay tight and true when you put the shirt through its paces.
Finally, when you’ve got the shirt on, take a good look in the mirror. Is it boxy and shapeless, or has the tailor tried to create a piece that follows the curves of the human figure? Flannels may be perfect to throw over a tee shirt or a long sleeve, but this doesn’t mean that they should hang straight down from your shoulders. If you have to add two or three layers to make your flannel look full, you either have the wrong size or the wrong shirt.
Construction details to look for in well-made flannels:
Great flannels aren’t made to fade in the same way that denim is. They age beautifully, but we don’t judge them by their ability to wear their abuse on their faces. Quite the opposite. We expect a great flannel to retain its vivid colours for years, and makers make them with this intention in mind.
The weaver and tailor collaborate to create a shirt that won’t go to pieces in either the bush or the wash. The fabric is almost as tough as kevlar, and the seams are equally bulletproof. Choose to invest in a well-made flannel and It’ll be there (thrown over the chair or at the end of the bed), ready to keep you warm and to look great for years to come.
If you’ve got the flannel, you’ll need the jeans to match, so check out our Selvedge Masterlist, which will help you find jeans that will pair beautifully with any of the flannels listed above.
Flannel up this fall to hike, operate the tailgate grill, or tame the fall foliage. We've found the best classic wool, cotton, and technical flannel shirts for men.
Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More
Ask the GearJunkie staff what their favorite season is, and it would undeniably be flannel season — doing fall chores, warming up by the fire, and simply working from home. As hot days give way to cool mornings, we’re all looking forward to flanneling up.
As low-pressure systems bring deep winter snow, we look forward to shouldering thick flannels that feel cozy at the cabin and capable outside. Our winter flannel buyers guide veers towards thicker, beefier shirts. All shirts this round are constructed from 200-plus grams per square meter (g/m²). These are the shirts we’ve been wearing après ski, closing out late fall chores, and layering up with to shovel the stoops.
To find the best flannels for 2024, we combed through stores, scoured the internet, and spoke with brands to find the best options available. To test the flannels, we wore them at work, hammered through weekend chores, brought them camping, and occasionally shouldered them as we tossed our legs over a bike.
What makes the perfect flannel? We looked at materials, cut, and construction, excusing color and patterns. Color schemes are more personal, and we’ll let you pick what looks best in your wardrobe.
To find the best flannels for men, scroll through to see all of our recommended buys or jump to the category you’re looking for. And once you’ve done that, check out our comprehensive buyer’s guide to unravel what makes a flannel a flannel, our chart to see how our choices stack up against one another, and our FAQ for any lingering questions. Grab your s’mores or pumpkin spice latte and get ready to arm yourself with what truly differentiates a quality flannel from the rest. The following flannels will last for seasons to come.
Editor’s Note: We updated our Men’s Flannels guide on February 28, 2024, to bulk up on the warmth factor and bring an entirely new line-up of thick flannels and shackets to get you through the cold of winter.
Best Overall Flannel
100% BCI approved cotton
300 g/m²
1 lb., 3.5 oz.
Appropriately roomy
Wear it for chores or to the bar. If you just want one flannel to punch up your wardrobe, the MuskOx Grand will land it with a TKO.
High-quality Egyptian and US sourced BCI cotton
Milled and sewn in Portugal
Built like a tank
Fat loop to hang the shirt in the nape of the neck
22 solid and plaid patterns to choose from
Too much flannel for some
Cotton weft shows early pilling around the wrist
Steve Graepel
Best Budget Flannel
100% cotton
275 g/m²
1 lb., 2 oz.
Appropriately roomy
Replacing your sweatshirt
Comfortable cotton weave
Affordable price
Durable seams
Reasonable room under the cuffs
Not many — all design decisions were made to save money without sacrificing quality
Steve Graepel
Best Flannel Upgrade
100% cotton
330 g/m²
1 lb., 5 oz.
Fitted, slender in the sleeves
A better blanket shirt in just about every way
Luxuriously soft material
Heavy flannel remains pliable
Lifetime warranty
Wears too narrow in the sleeves to wear as an overshirt
Steve Graepel
Best Work-Ready Flannel
100% BCI cotton
290 g/m²
14.5 oz.
Fits normal
Tasks where functional and fashionable intersect
Impeccable craftsmanship
Burly BCI cotton fabric
Attention to detail is top shelf
Expensive (but you can get the shirt ½ off now)
Heavy buffalo plaid options aren't for everyone
Steve Graepel
Best Flannel Overshirt
80% wool and 20% recycled polyester
385 g/m²
1 lb., 12 oz.
Appropriately oversized
Hardwearing tasks outside in mixed conditions
Comfortable against the skin
Impeccable craftsmanship
Good mobility
Expensive
Cuffs are snug when buttoned with the inside button
Runs a touch large. Buy down a size if you are in between sizes
Steve Graepel
Best of the Rest
80% recycled wool, 20% nylon
500 g/m²
1 lb., 4 oz.
Slim
This is a deconstructed work shirt that looks and wears great around town. While it's up for the task, we find it too refined for hard labor
Quality craftsmanship
Environment-friendly process
Well-priced for what you get
Weather resistant
Itchy
Chest pockets are small
Steve Graepel
100% US cotton
220 g/m²
14.5 oz.
Fits normally
The Boca is tough-wearing flannel that’s American enough to make a bald eagle shed a tear of Miller Lite
Entirely made in USA
Durable
Expensive, but the price reflects the backstory
The company is the world’s best men allover print single button blazer supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
A pencil slot would put the final nail in the shirt
Steve Graepel
98% polyester, 2% Lycra
254 g/m²
13 oz.
Relaxed
A modern take on a vintage surf flannel. It’s an easy shirt to bring to the beach and is our go-to flannel for casual weekends.
Well constructed
Fabric is soft and durable
Chest pocket is curved, not square, which makes it more decorative than functional
Expensive
Steve Graepel
100% cotton
275 g/m²
1 lb., 4 oz.
Fits normal if you size down
The provenance of western American workwear, it is up for any task and wears casually around town
Durable cotton and construction
Classic styling
Pleated chest pockets
Several color options available
Expensive. There are better options in this price range
Would like to see the armholes flat-felled
Sizing is one size too big
Steve Graepel
100% organic cotton
370 g/m²
13.5 oz.
Fits normal
Durable enough for the shop with modern designs suitable for urban life
Durable
Modern styling
Organic cotton
Fabric weight is deceivingly light in the hand
Snug cuffs when buttoned
Steve Graepel
100% cotton
210 g/m²
13.5 oz.
Fits normal
Casual dress day at the office and looking sharp on weekends
Beautiful cotton weave
Great color options
Customized fit
Attention to detail
On the expensive side
Not a heavyweight flannel for winter
Steve Graepel
100% organic cotton
Unknown
1 lb., 7 oz.
More tailored than the Blanket Shirt
Casual wear and looking stylish
Soft and airy
Impeccable craftsmanship
Expensive
Not very durable
Limited patterns and colorways
A little slim in the arms
Airy weave may catch on sharp edges
Expensive
Steve Graepel
100% US cotton
Unknown
1 lb., 6 oz.
Fits normal
A well priced, warm flannel that's up for some hard work
Tailored shirt
Durable
Well priced
Snap closure
A little scratchy against the skin
Cuffs are snug around wrist
Steve Graepel
100% organic cotton
300 g/m²
1 lb., 5 oz.
True-to-size
Cool weather overshirt
Great deal at $80
Soft and warm
Locker loop is too small for the weight of the flannel. It will likely pull out
Chest pocket button backers leave the otherwise great flannel feeling unfinished
Steve Graepel
75% merino wool, 23% nylon, 2% other fibers
Unknown
1 lb., 5 oz.
Appropriately oversized
Wear it alone over a tee or layer it over a lightweight flannel
Comfortable against the skin
Good mobility
Snap closure
Expensive
We expected better finishings for a $200 overshirt
Steve Graepel
The author testing flannels at Oktoberfest in Munich; (photo/Steve Graepel)At GearJunkie, flannels are an extension of our everyday lifestyle. A shirt, a sweatshirt, a jacket — they are the most flexible garment we own. Unlike a tent, camp stove, or a pair of boots, we shoulder flannels daily, allowing us to put the brushed twill through the paces. We tested flannels at the office, and through the weekend, grinding through chores like cleaning the garage, raking leaves, or simply walking the dog on cool summer mornings.
Cozy in coach and a fashionable way to layer up, we always pack at least one flannel for travel. They’ve had our backs on 6-hour-long flights to Germany, Italy, France, and Slovenia, as well as transcontinental flights from Jacksonville to Boise. In warmer climates, we’ve flanneled up on cool nights on the Dariense Isabelia ridge in Nicaragua and high up on the Colombian Coffee Triangle.
To test flannels, we always start with how the material feels in the hand. We rate it for plushness, softness, and durability. We look at the fiber material, weave, and brushed finish. The material choice and finish are indicators of how the manufacturer envisions the flannel should be worn and used, and it points us in the direction of how we should test the shirt. We want to see if the two align and how they stack up to the marketing story told online.
During real-world consideration, we aim to wear flannels for what they were made to do. For example, hard work-oriented flannels are worn doing tasks that are hard on a shirt. Specifically, we want to know how it accommodates range of motion.
We want to know if we can swing a hammer or reach boards from the top shelf without exposing our torso or restricting motion in the arms. We also test it for snagging and durability. Does the flannel catch on wood, metal edges, or granite shards? Does it collect a lot of dust and grime?
Finally, we shoulder the flannels and evaluate them for fit. The best material and construction can’t fake a good fit. We test it for mobility and proper length. Does the shirt bind under the arms? Are the pleats and gussets appropriate? Does a straight-cut work without pleats? Are the arms or hem cut at a proper length or do they ride up when reaching? How does the shirt taper in the torso and arms?
Material durability scores were weighted just as much as fit and mobility in our testing; (photo/Erika Courtney)Steve Graepel has been leading the men’s flannel buyer guide since 2015. Over the span of 8 years, Graepel has seen over 200 flannel shirts, rigorously testing 94 flannels. Graepel has worked at GearJunkie as a contributing editor since 2009, testing everything from packrafts, to bike bags, sleeping bags, winter boots, and trail runners. His latest beat is travel pants and flannels. Before his time as a fashion blogger, he wrote for Travel Idaho, National Geographic Adventure, Patagonia’s Tin Shed, Trail Runner, and Gear Patrol.
Graepel has researched and tested flannels extensively — traveling, working, and camping in the high alpine desert of Idaho, Montana, and Utah, and traveling abroad in a variety of environments including Europe and South America. He continues to long-term test flannels year-round and searches for anyone who will listen to his yarns testing the brushed twill.
In 2020, we saw 47 flannels and listed 15 flannels on our men’s buyers guide. In 2021, we tested an additional 20 flannels, highlighting nine new flannels on our list. In 2022, we saw an additional 20 flannels, adding 12 new flannels. And this year we looked at 40 flannels, adding nine new heavyweight flannels to the buyer’s guide.
Each year introduces new styles and materials, and we try to reflect the best on the market of that year. Some stalwart flannels remain on the list, year after year. They are either so good, or so good of a deal, that they are tough to topple.
Flannels aren’t hard, but their simplicity makes it important to understand the details of a standout shirt. To keep a finger on the pulse, we read reviews from top sites and contact manufacturers directly. Steve Graepel has the owners of several companies on speed dial, and has had conversations with manufacturers and mills from around the world. It’s not uncommon for manufacturers to reach out to GearJunkie before they release a flannel to get a sense of the new lineup.
These relationships allow us to stay up to date on what makes flannels better every year, and keep an eye on sleeper flannels that just don’t have the marketing budget to get mass attention.
Wool used to own the flannel scene, and it has a lot of merits. It retains warmth when exposed to moisture, resists odors and UV light, and can block the wind. We love ANIAN’s heavyweight Berlino overshirt, which delivers all of these qualities with its wool construction.
While the Berlino weaves some nylon into the fabric, it still feels scratchy. For a more wearable wool, consider merino wool blended with synthetic. Both Smartwool and Minus33 weave some synthetic fibers with their merino and both feel very wearable against the skin. But there are other materials worth considering.
Cotton can be buttery soft and an obvious choice to wear next to skin. Pladra, MuskOx, and Mountain Hardwear all use high-end cotton. But not all cotton flannels are brushed to this extent. &SONS Yukon Field Flannel is lightly brushed and feels rougher. This makes it better for hardwearing activities in the yard or at the shop.
Some cottons are sourced from organic or Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) approved cotton fields. No synthetic pesticides or chemical fertilizers can be used in the cotton to achieve the rank of “organic cotton.” Pladra’s Fireside and Mountain Hardwear’s Plusher both use organic cotton.
BCI-approved cotton meets sustainable standards that minimize pesticides, boost water conservation, and support better working conditions for farmers. Our top choices are from MuskOx sources BCI cotton. Either way, meeting either of these standards costs more money to achieve and the cost is passed onto the buyer. Expect to pay a little more for shirts that list either of these certifications.
In addition to cotton, there are a growing number of synthetic and synthetic blends on the market. Some of our testers wear flannels while hitting the trails high in the Rockies.
If you break a sweat in flannel — say mountain biking, skiing, or running — we recommend considering a synthetic flannel. They are easy to care for and can be thrown in the washer and tumbled in the dryer. Roark’s Nordsaman uses a higher percentage of synthetic fibers which wicks moisture away from the body and has a DWR. Wellen’s Hazy will feel more plush and is our top pick for a synthetic flannel.
The Outerknown Blanket Shirt is made from 100% organic cotton, and is luxuriantly soft for it; (photo/Erika Courtney)Like any shirt, flannels are offered in a variety of fits, from athletic and tailored to grandpa-style. If you prefer a tidy look with a slimmer athletic fit, Proper Cloth’s Jackson will be a good choice. But it can be a tradeoff with mobility. Without Lycra woven into the fabric, gussets, or mechanical weave, a tight, form-fitting flannel can bind behind the shoulders. Shirts like Filson’s Alaskan Guide get around this by adding a pleat between the shoulders.
On the other end of the spectrum, MuskOx is oversized and has no pleating. The roomy cut still allows great mobility to reach and work without feeling too big.
When making a purchase, let your use case guide you to the right flannel fit. And if it’s a work shirt, consider sizing down for everyday wear. As an example, Filson work shirts are typically sized just short of Arnold Schwarzenegger. We always have to buy one size down when looking at Filson. &SONS Yukon Field flannel shares a lot of the same merits we like about Filson but the off-the-shelf fit is spot on.
Note that this review covers the best flannel shirts for men. Looking for a women’s flannel? We have another flannel buyer’s guide specifically for women.
Ranging from 150 to >300+ g/m², the fabric weight of flannel can vary widely, and the use profile varies with it; (photo/Steve Graepel)Short for grams per meter squared meter, g/m² is the weight of one square meter of fabric. Generally the heavier the weight, the thicker the material will be, the warmer that flannel will likely be. We generally follow the same ratings as we use in base layers.
As we stare down the dark days of winter, our flannel guide focuses on mid- and heavyweight flannels. At just over 200 g/m², Proper Cloth’s Jackson sits as our lightest-weight winter shirt. As you might guess, it is best for mild temperatures and casual wear. On the other end sits ANIAN’s Berlino, which uses a stout 500 g/m² wool blend and is supremely warm.
The numbers game isn’t hard and fast. Counter to the listed weights, Helly Hansen’s Classic Check uses a whopping 375 g/m² cotton material but weighs as much as Proper Cloth’s Jackson, a 200 g/m² cotton shirt. If you have doubts and can’t find evidence in the reviews, it is always best to try a shirt on and get a feel for the material.
A heavier fabric doesn’t imply the material will be softer — which the Berlino is not. That soft, velvety feeling comes from brushing the material, giving it that lofty plush nap. A fabric with more nap can also be warmer than a fabric without it. The raised fibers trap air warmed from your body and work best as an insulator when worn under a jacket that can keep that warm air from flushing away. One of our favorite flannels, Pladra’s Fireside, leaves the outside unbrushed (for durability) and brushes the inside (which traps heat better and feels incredibly soft).
Buttons never go out of style, but there’s a difference between a cheap plastic button and a brass button. Some flannels, like Smartwool’s Anchor Line (left), use snaps in place of buttons. &SONS Yukon (right) uses oversized bison horn buttons; (photo/Steve Graepel)Flannel closure is a contentious debate at GearJunkie, and many editors have a soft spot for snaps. Often seen on Western-style shirts, they hold well and are quick and easy to get in and out of. Granted, we are an active crew of reviewers who wear our flannels on runs and rides. Both Smartwool’s Anchor Line and Roark’s Nordsman flannels close with snaps.
While we love the usability of snaps, they can be problematic. Snaps disrupt the material by punching holes through the placket — that strip of material that runs dead center down the shirt. In rare cases, snaps can pull through, which we’ve experienced more than once on a snap-style shirt.
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” — the button has been tried and true for some 5,000 years. Most buttons are constructed from hard plastics, though Devium and &SONS use horn. Jetty buttons their Arbor flannel up with metal buttons. Regardless of materials, we prefer big buttons for heavier materials, which is one more reason to consider Devium’s Boca. Their horn buttons are custom-made in Pennsylvania and are the size of a penny.
You can get into a flannel without having to spend a lot of cash. Better materials start to pry the wallet open. All flannels on this list are constructed from heavier-weight fabrics, and bargains get harder to find. We think that Jetty offers a solid deal at $75 and the Arbor is on sale now for $50.
The midprice of heavyweight flannels seems to fall in around $100, which creeps into a lot of money territory. And there can be a swell of uninspiring shirts in this range that lean on their brand recognition, bright patterns, and color schemes to open your wallet.
Here too, you get what you pay for, and it’s a good place to start to look at materials and construction to ensure you are indeed getting good value. Premium construction methods, like hand-sewn, double or triple stitching, and eco-conscious product development, start to tack onto the bottom line.
Unless there’s a backstory to support that extra cost, shirts priced over $150 leave you wondering if you are paying for someone’s mortgage. Topping out just below $200, we do feel that the attention to detail &SONS brings is of exceptionally high quality and warrants the expense.
While quality materials matter, the construction of the shirt is what often defines a quality shirt. The best will have flat-felled seams that roll the opposing material together and tack the seam down with a double stitch. The result hides all the cut edges, leaving a clean-looking, durable shirt inside and out. These shirts will often be double- or triple-stitched in high-stress zones, like the shoulders and sides.
While more durable, flat-felled seams can make a shirt bulkier, not every mill can pull off this level of construction. So flat-felled flannels tend to be more expensive.
Proper Cloth, &SONS and Helly Hansen use a flat-fell seam and vary the stitch count for extra durability where you need it most.
Many shirts use a more common overlock or surge stitch, where the two opposing panels are butted together and stitched down, leaving the seam’s edge raw on the inside. Using an overlock stitch is a much easier construction method, and since most sew houses can do it, the cost is (usually) reflected in the affordable price.
While flannel is often plaid, they are available in solids, too; (photo/Steve Graepel)The downside is some overlock stitches are left unfinished. Exposed, they can rub against the body, snag, and fray, which eventually will pull on the surrounding stitching. This gave us some pause when looking at the $200 Anchor Line from Smartwool. The shirt is fashionable and feels very good against the skin, so it still has its merits.
A good compromise is to flatlock the overstitching. It doesn’t hide the seams, but at least the overstitching is tacked down out of the way. This makes the seams less bulky than fully felled seams and costs less to sew. More importantly, it’s much more comfortable and practical when joining heavy-weight fabrics that creep over 300 g/m². Outerknown, Pladra, Anian, and MuskOx overstitched their flatlocked seams in the armpits.
When buying a shirt, look at the construction details. A well-constructed shirt will cost more in the short term but will last for years.
(Photo/Erika Courtney)What is flannel?
Traditionally a brushed twill made from wool, the original flannel was woven to keep Welsh sheep herders warm while tending the flock on temperamental winter days. Nowadays, the term flannel has expanded into cotton, synthetic, hemp, and blends with stretchy fibers. What unequivocally defines flannel is the brushed surface that lofts the yarns into a heat-trapping nap that gives it that super soft feel to the touch.
True flannels start from twill — a diagonal pattern like you find in jeans. Either the front or back can be brushed, giving it a soft insulating nap. To give a flannel that lofty fluffy feeling, a metal brush works the material’s surface, mechanically teasing the fibers until lofted into that fuzzy surface that traps air.
What flannels are most durable?
Flannel is achieved by brushing the fabric to tease fibers out, which act like an insulator. The rub is it can compromise durability. In short, the fibers are broken and become more prone to catching dust and grime, which can continue to break down the fibers. Contrastingly, lightly brushed flannels tend to be more durable. They don’t collect as much grime or catch as easily on wood splinters or metal edges.
Flannel comes in all forms these days. It’s unfair to box a shirt in or out of the flannel club. It might help to think of the base material sitting on a brush scale. At the far end is a smooth-faced, durable shirt. On the other is a soft and plush shirt.
Our top pick from MuskOX is a buttery soft flannel made from 300 g/m² organic cotton. The shirt is brushed on both sides and exudes flannel. The fabric is so thick that it will retain durability year after year. For mid-weight flannels, lightly brushed fabrics, like found in Devium’s Boca or &SONS Yukon will serve as better work shirts over, say Outerknown’s Cloud Weave which brushes loosely woven yarns.
What is the difference between flannel and plaid?
Flannel is a lofted fabric–regardless of the pattern. That fabric can come in a variety of solids and patterns, including the cross-hatched patterns, originally dating back to the Scottish culture to distinguish families and clans, we call plaid.
How do I choose a flannel?
Start with how and where you want to use it. If you intend to wear your flannel outside or as a jacket, consider a wool or insulated flannel. Minus33’s Sportsman Guide is great at blocking wind and light rain. We liked Devium’s front pockets and the low nap is very durable, but the cotton flannel is best worn on cool, dry days. Outerknown’s Cloud Weave is great for around town but lacks durability for hardwearing tasks.
We love Proper Cloth’s Jackson for its overall softness, quality, and general easy-wearing approachability. For more active pursuits, we liked how Wellen’s synthetic Hazy wicks moisture, without compromising that plush feeling we yearn for. But neither are as durable as Filson’s Alaskan Guide’s nearly bulletproof cotton flannel. The hard-tack surface is also the least plush shirt on our list.
Some work flannels, like those offered by Filson, can be oversized. We found the work-inspired Boca from Devium fit spot-on. In general, you will be happier if you try them on before you buy. If you can’t, it’s worth sizing down for a more tailored fit — especially when buying anything from Filson, which generally runs one size larger.
Like a tool in your toolbox, the best flannel will be the flannel that meets your needs. Take stock of how you want to use it, and then use our guide to find the best option for you.
What’s the warmest flannel?
The warmest shirt is the Pladra’s Fireside. The organic cotton fibers are fat and durable, with a low nap on the outside, its brushed in the inside to trap heat like down. Mountain Hardwear’s 300 g/m² Plusher is a good budget option for those who want a warm shirt that can also work as an overshirt.
Neither is as thick (or durable) as ANIAN’s Berlino wool, but the Fireside and Plusher wear more streamlined, whereas the Minus33 and Smartwool fit more like an overshirt. If you want to stay warm in wet weather, reach for wool or synthetic, and that’s where the Minus33 Sportsman Guide Shirt shines.
What’s the most comfortable flannel?
We loved Outerknown’s Cloud Weave for its über-soft feeling, both inside and out. It became the benchmark to test all other flannels for softness.
If you want a more heavyweight-hitting flannel, but don’t want to compromise softness, Pladra’s Fireside is a fantastic choice. While the outside isn’t brushed, the material is softer than a lot of other work-inspired shirts but still is inherently durable. For comfort against the skin, they brushed the inside to perfection.
How long do flannels last?
How long a shirt lasts is a combination of materials, construction, and use.
If taken care of, quality materials sewn together with flat seams will last for years. MuskOx, Devium, Roark, &SONS, and even the stylishly tailored Fireside from Pladra are all highly durable shirts. Any of these shirts are solidly constructed and will serve you well.
How often should I wash my flannel shirt?
How often you wash it depends on how you wear it. If you wear it daily as an overshirt, where you aren’t sweating directly against the fabric, you can get by with a few wears before you wash it. If you work out in it or are putting it to task with a shovel on a pile of dirt, you should wash your shirt.
Follow the instructions on the garment. While synthetics can be washed and dried on low, we recommend air-drying cotton shirts. They can shrink.
Wool shirts might need special care, like dry-cleaning. Never dry a wool shirt in the drier. The fibers can shrink significantly making it essentially unwearable.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of aloha shirt sea white. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.