Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best Jurassic Park Velociraptor Costume

06 May.,2024

 

Original Jurassic Park Velociraptor Costume Makes ...


Despite hitting theatres almost 20 years ago, Jurassic Park and its ground-breaking special effects still holds up. And if you’ve yet to find the perfect Halloween outfit for next week, check out this behind-the-scenes look at the velociraptor costumes Stan Winston Studios created for the film.

Original Jurassic Park Velociraptor CostumeJurassic Park Velociraptor Costume Makes ...


Despite hitting theatres almost 20 years ago, Jurassic Park and its ground-breaking special effects still holds up. And if you’ve yet to find the perfect Halloween outfit for next week, check out this behind-the-scenes look at the velociraptor costumes Stan Winston Studios created for the film.

This never-before-seen footage was released as part of the curriculum for the Stan Winston School of Character Arts, and while it doesn’t exactly give you a step-by-step breakdown of how to build your own, the basic concepts are revealed. You’ll just need to master the intricacies of working with foam and latex, advanced painting techniques, and learn to walk like an extinct bipedal carnivore in a week’s time. But trading a week without sleep for a guaranteed win at every costume contest you enter is totally worth it.

[Stan Winston School of Character Arts via Cheezburger]

Velociraptor costume

The fabric that allows for ‘vision’ in the neck is a sheer fabric, like an organza. If it’s thin enough, you can always use two layers if needed.

Those links listed by drag0nfeathers are a great place to start. Also, check out beastcub, beetlecat, and monoyasha on youtube. They have stuff up on youtube to see some of their projects and sometimes tips. Beastcub has one regarding heads and jaws, to get an idea of different types. For what you are looking for, you’ll probably want a hinged jaw and use springs (this is what is in drag0n’s kyuubi head and what I am using on mine. It takes a bit of work to get the tension just right but play around with it before you foam it. (yeah…. I foamed first on my NinaChimera drag0n.. hence the issues I had with the tension on the jaw).

If you wanted to make it ‘feathery’, there are fabrics that have that little ‘fuzz’ sticking out of it, kind of a fun fabric sort of thing. It would look like little feather sprouts without being completely all feathers. There are also fun furs that look sort of like feathers with ticking, which could also be fun. The fabric they use is a suede-like fabric with a pattern to it that sort of gives an impression of ‘scales’ (I’ve seen that type of fabric). Since it’s soft and suede-like, it should airbrush nicely for those subtle markings. Just sew it like you would any other fabric. If you look closely at the pictures posted by that cosplayer, you can sort of see where the seams are.

For the head, whatever you use as your frame, to ‘fur’ it, I definitely recommend using the tape method. I just wrap the thing in plastic wrap and cover it with brown packaging tape (duct tape works too… whatever is handy). The plastic wrap gives the tape something to stick to that isn’t foam for when it want to remove it (it will already have a nice backing then instead of still being sticky, since it does pull off of foam easily. Matrices shows this I believe on one of her tutorials.

The eyes are just the resin eyes like drag0n has on her kyuubi and I am using on my costumes, only they are following eyes. To do that, you would take two resin blanks, glue them together with a drop of E6000 (unlike regular superglue, it dries crystal clear, but requires some ventilation to use… it smells! and it takes a little longer to be fully cured ‘ie. dry’ and a bit more work room. It also sticks to many more surfaces) and press them together. Once dried, you would paint the back side of one of the resin blanks, giving you the following eye effect. The resin kits can be gotten at craft stores like Michael’s or ACMoore (that’s where I got mine… I just use flexible artist trays for the molds… silicone works the best, because it’s flexible for easier removal later). You’d also need mold release (or just order them from someone).

A moveable tail… there are different ways to do it, but it depends a bit on what you want to use and how mechanical you want to get. Monoyasha had a great one of her checking out the stilts on her Toothless quad, but she took down the video on youtube (probably because she thought it was too revealing of her techniques, since this is what she does for a living).

Yes, I know… I still need to post my pics from Anime Boston of my Nina Chimera and I should post up the progress pics for it (not many and for the other fursuit projects – Naruto’s 2 tailed beast Nibi no Nekomata and a pokemon – Blaziken). Need to tweek Nina as well. Still getting cleaned up after the con and getting paperwork that I have due this week taken care of. :glasses:

This never-before-seen footage was released as part of the curriculum for the Stan Winston School of Character Arts, and while it doesn’t exactly give you a step-by-step breakdown of how to build your own, the basic concepts are revealed. You’ll just need to master the intricacies of working with foam and latex, advanced painting techniques, and learn to walk like an extinct bipedal carnivore in a week’s time. But trading a week without sleep for a guaranteed win at every costume contest you enter is totally worth it.

[Stan Winston School of Character Arts via Cheezburger]

Velociraptor costume

The fabric that allows for ‘vision’ in the neck is a sheer fabric, like an organza. If it’s thin enough, you can always use two layers if needed.

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Those links listed by drag0nfeathers are a great place to start. Also, check out beastcub, beetlecat, and monoyasha on youtube. They have stuff up on youtube to see some of their projects and sometimes tips. Beastcub has one regarding heads and jaws, to get an idea of different types. For what you are looking for, you’ll probably want a hinged jaw and use springs (this is what is in drag0n’s kyuubi head and what I am using on mine. It takes a bit of work to get the tension just right but play around with it before you foam it. (yeah…. I foamed first on my NinaChimera drag0n.. hence the issues I had with the tension on the jaw).

If you wanted to make it ‘feathery’, there are fabrics that have that little ‘fuzz’ sticking out of it, kind of a fun fabric sort of thing. It would look like little feather sprouts without being completely all feathers. There are also fun furs that look sort of like feathers with ticking, which could also be fun. The fabric they use is a suede-like fabric with a pattern to it that sort of gives an impression of ‘scales’ (I’ve seen that type of fabric). Since it’s soft and suede-like, it should airbrush nicely for those subtle markings. Just sew it like you would any other fabric. If you look closely at the pictures posted by that cosplayer, you can sort of see where the seams are.

For the head, whatever you use as your frame, to ‘fur’ it, I definitely recommend using the tape method. I just wrap the thing in plastic wrap and cover it with brown packaging tape (duct tape works too… whatever is handy). The plastic wrap gives the tape something to stick to that isn’t foam for when it want to remove it (it will already have a nice backing then instead of still being sticky, since it does pull off of foam easily. Matrices shows this I believe on one of her tutorials.

The eyes are just the resin eyes like drag0n has on her kyuubi and I am using on my costumes, only they are following eyes. To do that, you would take two resin blanks, glue them together with a drop of E6000 (unlike regular superglue, it dries crystal clear, but requires some ventilation to use… it smells! and it takes a little longer to be fully cured ‘ie. dry’ and a bit more work room. It also sticks to many more surfaces) and press them together. Once dried, you would paint the back side of one of the resin blanks, giving you the following eye effect. The resin kits can be gotten at craft stores like Michael’s or ACMoore (that’s where I got mine… I just use flexible artist trays for the molds… silicone works the best, because it’s flexible for easier removal later). You’d also need mold release (or just order them from someone).

A moveable tail… there are different ways to do it, but it depends a bit on what you want to use and how mechanical you want to get. Monoyasha had a great one of her checking out the stilts on her Toothless quad, but she took down the video on youtube (probably because she thought it was too revealing of her techniques, since this is what she does for a living).

Yes, I know… I still need to post my pics from Anime Boston of my Nina Chimera and I should post up the progress pics for it (not many and for the other fursuit projects – Naruto’s 2 tailed beast Nibi no Nekomata and a pokemon – Blaziken). Need to tweek Nina as well. Still getting cleaned up after the con and getting paperwork that I have due this week taken care of. :glasses:

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