Drum brakes, which are still in use today on the rear of many vehicles, operate on a hydraulic basis, using brake fluid to apply pressure to pistons in the wheel cylinder, which in turn presses the brake shoes against the drum and stops the wheels.
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The wheel cylinder is made up of metal housing, pistons, and seals, and is hidden away inside the drum, making it difficult to diagnose a problem unless the drum is removed. If the cylinder has become severely worn or damaged, an obvious brake fluid leak may alert you to a problem but otherwise you might not know something’s wrong until your brakes malfunction. To avoid complete brake failure, the wheel cylinder should be replaced as soon as you notice a leak.
The wheel cylinders should also be replaced when the brake shoes are being changed for a couple of reasons: firstly, it’s better to do the whole thing at once than to have to tear everything apart again if the cylinder fails after a few thousand more miles. Secondly, new brake shoes are thicker than old ones and will push the pistons back to a position where corrosion may have developed around the bore, which could cause leaks.
To make sure you’re getting a good quality brake wheel cylinder:
Quality: Make sure the part meets SAE J431-G standards.
Go for a smooth sealing surface: Check for a bore finish of 5-25 RA microinches; this ensure a smooth sealing surface.
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Go for the “premium” version: The difference between standard and premium wheel cylinders is insignificant, price wise, and with a premium cylinder you get higher quality metal, better seals, and a smoother bore.
Longer part life: Look for premium SBR cups and EPDM boots. These ensure long life and durability.
Corrosion resistance: Make sure the bleeder screws are plated in order to add corrosion resistance.
Match the metal: If your original wheel cylinder was cast iron, get that. If it was aluminum, likewise.
Warranty: Shop around for the best warranty. It is possible to find a lifetime warranty on this part so make sure you do your homework.
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