Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR, nitrile)
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NBR, also known as nitrile rubber or nitrile, is the most popular material for an oil seal because of its good resistance to many oils and greases, such as mineral grease and hydraulic oil. Depending on their composition, synthetic oils and greases, such as those based on glycol, can damage NBR rubber materials. Depending on the amount of glycol, a PTFE lip seal may be the best choice. NBR is also unable to cope with contact with acids and solvents. The rubber is suitable for oil and grease at temperatures from -35 °C to 100 °C.
Most ERIKS oil seals, such as the types M, MST, R and RST, are made of NBR as standard.
Fluorine rubber (FKM, Viton&#;)
FKM or FPM, which is in well-known brand Viton&#;, can withstand higher liquid temperatures of up to 180 ˚C. FKM is highly resistant to strong acids and bases, as well as to synthetic oils and greases. Glycol-based oil and grease, however, can also damage FKM.
Because of the higher temperature resistance of FKM, this material is also chosen for applications where higher speeds play a role, which raise the temperature at the sealing lip considerably. Usually, using FKM will result in a longer life than using NBR. This compensates the higher price of FKM compared to NBR, as an FKM does not have to be replaced as frequently. The low temperature resistance of standard FKM is limited to -15 ˚C.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon®)
PTFE, which is used in the well-known brand Teflon®, is less commonly used, but it is the preferred material for specific rotating seals in the chemical, food and pharmaceutical industries. This material is notable for having a very low frictional resistance and the best chemical resistance. It can also withstand a very wide range of temperatures in these types of seals; -80 ˚C to 200 ˚C. The shafts on which oil seals with PTFE lips are used require a harder and finer finish. Something like an axle sleeve can also be used to meet this requirement.
EPDM
EPDM oil seals are less common. They are used in solvent, hot water and steam applications, EPDM resists low temperatures down to -50 °C and UV radiation well. Some types of EPDM are also suitable for higher temperatures up to +150 °C. EPDM oil seals are usually available upon request.
VMQ (silicone)
VMQ, also known as silicone, is also used for oil seals, but this is less common because the mechanical strength of VMQ is low and this material has poor wear-resistance This makes it less suitable for dynamic applications, but it can withstand fairly low and high temperatures from -60 °C to 200 °C. Many types of VMQ are also suitable for contact with pharmaceutical and food products, so VMQ is an option worth considering. VMQ oil seals are usually available on request.
As with many automotive operations, the complexity of a task is not always representative of its importance. Take axle seal installation&#; a pretty straightforward affair but get it wrong and your diff is doomed. The seal will leak and ultimately lead to gear failure. To avoid this scenario, we have compiled 10 installation tips that will ensure you do the job right.
There are many different types of axle seals. For our purposes we will be referring to the popular dynamic radial seal. These seals typically feature a mild carbon steel shell. In cases where corrosion is a concern the shell can be formed from stainless steel. In most cases, the seal will be outfitted with a garter spring to keep the seal lip tight against the rotating seal surface. Garter springs are made of spring steel wire and in some cases stainless steel and can be locked into place or merely wedged in place so special attention should be paid to ensure proper seating during installation. The inside of the seal is called the lip and it is typically made of some type of rubberized material. The lip can look different from one seal to another with some featuring a stepped design or more than one lip. The shell has a bore seal bumper on its oil side that is made from a softer material to provide a pliable seal.
A seal installation tool that&#;s designed for the particular seal you&#;re working with is preferred. Seal installation kits from your local parts store or online tools source are inexpensive, long lasting, and effective. In lieu of that, a socket or bearing race will work in a pinch. The Yukon front inner axle seal installation tool (pictured) works with Dana 30, 44, and 60 front differentials.
Inspect the shaft where the seal will ride. Light imperfections in the finish can be polished with crocus cloth or emery cloth. If more substantial defects like deep scratches, pitting, or scoring are present you may have to remedy with a new shaft or install a Speedi Sleeve. If the shaft is blemish free, clean it well to remove any residual grit.
Take the same approach with the bore. Look for the usual scratches and pitting but also check for roundness. There should be a chamfered edge around the bore to aid in seal installation. A light chamfer can be added, if needed, using a fine-tooth file. Beyond that, clean the area of grit and excess oil.
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It is wise to use a sealant like an RVT, on the outside diameter of the seal shell to ensure no fluid will be able to seep around the seal once it&#;s installed. Note that many seals are made with a coating on their outside diameter to assist in this.
Be deliberate and ensure you drive the seal in place squarely. Don&#;t allow the seal to go in the bore crooked and possibly damage the seal and/or the seal bore. Keep the seal square and install it until it&#;s flush with the housing or against its stop. It would be wise to note the position of the original seal prior to its removal.
Install the seal such that the garter spring is facing inward, toward the fluids you intend to seal in.
In some installations the garter spring can pop off during the process. To avoid this simply apply the backside of the seal with grease (or Vaseline in a pinch) to encourage the spring to stay in place.
When sliding seal over the shaft be sure to protect the lip or leading edge. This can be achieved with special sleeves over splines, using guide plates, or simply using smooth tape&#; or being very careful. An extension screwed onto the stud of an axle shaft, for example, can provide the control and support needed to complete the installation without having to rest on the shaft.
Use grease or gear oil, to lubricate the seal lip and/or the shaft to facilitate easy installation.
Check that the axle vents are free and clear of any gritty buildup. Clogged vents can lead to excessive housing pressure that may speed the wear of the seal and encourage oil blowby around the seal.
These tips, compiled from Randy Lyman&#;s book, &#;Differentials Identification, Restoration & Repair&#;, provide both the technical information and the proper frame of mind to ensure a trouble-free seal install. Happy wrenching.
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