You need hoses or stainless brake lines (NOT raw steel), tubing bender and flaring tool (if you choose hard lines), and an "electric over hydraulic" brake actuator (US$600+). Plus a couple of quarts of DOT3. That axle is a great price, because the cheapest I have seen the Kodiak disk kit is at eTrailers for US$260.Then you need a standard electric brake controller to send the correct input to the actuator. For loose surfaces you dial the current way down or all the way to zero. I really like the SUPERB Jordan Ultima cable operated units, but unfortunately they are long out of production. So pick a high rated electronic model like the Tekonsha P3, and learn to live with reduced performance both on road and off.....Disk brakes are expensive, mostly because of the exotic actuator they require, but I bet you will be very happy with them. A down side is that you have no option for a mechanical parking brake. IMHO a standard Dexter pound axle with 10" x 2" brake "with parking feature" would be a more cost effective and satisfactory choice for a teardrop.If you go with disks or regular electric drum brakes, you can always use a breakaway switch to lock the brakes for a while (just pull the pin out), but that uses up a ton of current (3 amps per brake) and will run down your house battery pretty fast.The only difference in the P-brake from the regular one is that it has a cam with external arm that allows you to set it manually with a cable and handle. You will have to engineer some of the linkages, but you can buy a surplus military handle for about $70 or use something from a junkyard car. A mil-surp brake cable for an M-410 trailer is $58. The P-brakes are much more expensive than the bare ones, due to low production numbers, but they are WAY cheaper than a disk setup.You also need springs and associated stuff, but I assume you knew thatGood luck.John DaviesSpokane WA USA
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I switched my junk drum brakes over to Kodiaks on the front axle only. I purchased everything including a new coupler from http://www.easternmarine.com/KODIAK-DIS ... ake-Parts/ . They were very good to deal with except for one of the wheel bearings being defective. They use bearings made in China as most do. I called and they sent a replacement the next day. I could have used one of my old bearings if needed. Save your old bearings if they are the same size and still good -- clean them real well in solvent, dry them and then re-pack and place if a zip-lock bag for spare parts. Since you already have disc brakes, the coupler should be fine if it is working. Plan on replacing the brake line. I've never had any luck getting the lines out of the backing plate or caliper after a 2-3 year or more time. Cost was about $170/each wheel. This is what I purchased -- http://www.easternmarine.com/kodiak-10- ... ess-1hrcm1 . They seemed to be the best bang for the buck. I also keep a spray bottle of salt-away mixed and spray the brake assembly EVERY TIME I dunk and pull the trailer. PM me if you have any questions -- Glad to help!BTW-- I always make sure I pull forward when parking the trailer to pull the coupler out and un-load any pressure on the brakes. As for getting the old one freed up -- Soak them REAL GOOD with P-B Blaster and let them set a day or so.
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